(used the previously posted process) I did not find as much difference as expected so am questioning if I have a damaged component in the brakes - that would be the single ball bearing pressed into the outboard alum plate that moves when the levers are pulled. New pads installed today, and calipers re-aligned to get a baseline of lever pull and setup. My guess is the red cap over bolt #3 works like the caps on cranks - keeps the bolt from getting lost if it comes loose.ĭisassembly / reassembly is about 10 minutes once you figure this out. Next is the aluminum plate on the outboard caliper, it just pops off with very little pressure.
The curved part of the shaft, (not the flats) lined up with the spring hole. When you disassemble the BB5, pay attention to the alignment of the shaft bolt #3 goes into, or you can assemble 90 deg off and won't get the rotation needed. New pads arrive in a day or so, then I'll get it perfect.
I've had these brakes off a few times already as I learn about them, but last night I didn't get the rear correct, seems to just touch the outboard side. Thanks for posting it so at least it's in the thread. Wow! I wonder what the BB5s on my 'crosser look like.I might have to fully disassemble and clean them before I resell them (since I just replaced with TRP HY/RDs).Ya, the card stock alignment trick you posted #11 works great. I honestly liked mine, though the pad wear is a little uneven. I know the BB5s are billed as entry level, and aren't as slick as the 7s or some of the hybrid cable/hydro systems, but after you get the 5s fully refurb'd and adjusted they will work great. Back the adjustment off one click to eliminate pad/rotor contact. Since rotors (in theory) are true, you shouldn't need to turn the wheel.unless you've trued your rotors, turn the wheel. By hand, turn the pad adjustment knob until the pad just barely touches the rotor. Loosen the INBOARD pad adjustment, by hand or with the T-25 driver. Now, leaving the card between the OUTBOARD pad and rotor, re-tighten the mounting bolt to the specified torque.Ħ. Some folks turn a few extra clicks on the adjuster, I always adjust until the card wont move anymore, and stop the key is that the card is just tight enough it doesn't move.ĥ. Tighten the INBOARD red adjustment knob until the rotor and business card are snugly clamped between the brake pads. Slide a business card (I use a card made from card stock that is not glazed, just heavy paper) between the OUTBOARD, fixed brake pad and the rotorĤ.
AVID BB5 DRIVER
Loosen the INBOARD pad using a Torx T-25 driver (I guess you could turn the red hand adjuster, but the Torx is much easier).ģ. Loosen the mounting bolts with a 5mm Allen key so the caliper body can move freely.Ģ. Make sure you turn your barrel adjusters all the way out, and pull the cables taught before you begin.ġ. I found this technique on the inter webs a few months back, and used it to fine tune my 5s, had them working great, with minimal drag while not engaged. Anyhow, not sure if you know this tip, and if you do, just ignore.